Delicous Food in Maryborough - Believe me

It is not very often that I am writing a restaurant review and even less often that I am reviewing a hotel restaurant. But I came across this amazing gem when I was invited to a 'foodie' evening in the Maryborough Hotel organised by AA.

I have to admit, I didn't expect much but since Avril Allshire Howe of Rosscarbery came as well, I thought it was a great way of catching up with this amazing food producer (and boy, did we catch up, talking til way after midnight).

But let's talk about the food - as I mentioned, my expectations weren't very high but I was extremely surprised. The photos don't do the food justice (plates were black and it was dark) - so you will have to trust my words. I missed the first course as traffic was terrible but it was Pan Fried Scallop, Cumin Roasted Pork Belly with Cauliflower Puree (feedback from others was fantastic). Then came:

Seared Pigeon, Golden Beetroot, Orange Veloute - gamey, fresh, perfect autumn/winter dish

Didn't take photo (was just arriving)

 

Salmon Mi Cuit, Whiskey & Soya Lacquer, Herb Créme Fraiche - the best salmon I have eaten EVER

Potato Espuma, Crispy Potato Skins & House Pancetta - Rich, warming, creative, simply wonderful

Forgot to take a photo (ups)

Seared Venison Loin, Braised Haunch, Swede Puree, Cassis Jus - PERFECTION

Pork Fillet, Apricot & chestnut stuffing, Butternut Squash, Sage Crisp - Beautiful cooking, perfect balance of flavours, 

Roasted Monkfish, Parma Ham, Mussel Infusion - a simple description of a beautiful dish - a taste of the sea with a bit of earthiness 

Chargrilled Vegetables, Cumin Yoghurt, Halloumi - a different take on Halloumi

Earl Grey Tea Créme Brulee, Cinnamon Crips & Flora Tea - Subtle flavours, excellent execution, beautiful tea

Mulled Wine & Pear Trifle - AMAZING

Gingerbread & Lemon Curd Cup with Hazelnut Meringue Cap - curd was too sweet for me but perfect for a sweet tooth

Chocolate Taster Plate - Dark Chocolate Mousse in a chocolate case, white chocolate & Whiskey parfait (next to the trifle my favourite dessert)

Just writing the dishes down, makes me want more. It was a balanced menu, created by chefs who care. Perfect execution and presentation (apart from the black plates) - I will be back for more.

Service was exceptional - waiters/waitresses are well trained and attentive without invading your space. Head Chef Brendan Brosnan and General Manager Justin McCarthy have a winning formula and I am looking forward to many visits in the future.

Heather's at the Gap of Dunloe

Whenever I hear of restaurant openings, my ears are set to high alert and I get excited - the prospect of good food does that to me.

One of these openings was Heather at Moriarty's in Gap of Dunloe. I have to admit, I don't venture out much into Kerry (a big mistake, I know) so I was intrigued to see what Heather is all about and thanks to their PR company, Fuzion, I received an invite to the opening (big thank you for that).

Denis Moriarty welcoming Rachel Allen

Heather is located on the road that leads to the Gap and with a great advantage, it is one of the first premises you will see when you drive up the road. The building itself smooths in nicely with the rugged surrounds of the Kerry countryside. Tim Austen of RTE's Super Garden (previous) has designed the gardens and considering that it has only been finished recently, you can already see how he took the local flora and incorporated it to create an interactive gardens that will invite bees, butterflies and other wildlife to the area.

Staying with growing, 2 large poly tunnels provide a wide array of salads, herbs and vegetables. Across the grounds 130 fruit bushes have been planted - it doesn't get fresher than that.

Rachel Allen opening Heather

Michael & Margaret Moriarty established the souvenir shop in 1964 and have quickly gained a reputation for high quality. Son Denis and his wife Ailish are running the business now and Denis told us in his opening speech how his father used to collect local heather, bound it into nice bunches and sold it to passing tourists. An entrepreneur after my liking - so the name of the restaurant is in honour of Michael who passed away. Mother Margaret is still involved in the business and you could see how proud she was of Denis who has visions for the future.

Restaurant manager Jennifer Dowling is working hard to transform this vision into reality and is very open when asked about ethos of the restaurant etc. The food is sourced within a 25km area if not grown on the premises. The Moriarties are working closely with local producers who were invited to meet future customers and talk about their products and I had the great pleasure of meeting the amazing Peter Ireson of Knocknatee Cheese. His cheddar and blue cheese were simply outstanding - high quality cheese that will be in my top 10 cheese list. Peter himself is a character who you simply have to like.

The restaurant will be open 7 days a week until 7pm but private parties can be booked. The menu highlights local produce and the ethos is, let the food and its quality speak for itself. Mains include Ring of Kerry Lamb Chops with Braised Lentils, Buttered Bay Carrots and Sage Jus, Glenbeigh Cockles and Mussels cooked in White Wine, Garlic and Chill. Brunch is served Saturday and Sundays from 11am. 

So make sure to stop at Heather's when you are in the area...... the Gap of Dunloe is always worth a visit, now there is an added bonus

The Critics are back

I am delighted that Club Brasserie is our host for our April Critic's Night. Harold & Beth have been in the restaurant business for 20 years and have still the passion for food to create an outstanding menu. Both are looking forward to meeting the Critics and are planning an excellent evening for us. 

Price per person is €34 and includes canapés on arrival and a dinner - and here is the surprise which I am not revealing :-) - we are changing the layout slightly but it will be a fun evening with excellent food. Booking is essential as places are limited and need to be done via biasasta@hotmail.com 

For everyone who hasn't been at a Critic's Night yet, the concept is easy. You come, eat and judge. You will be given a questionnaire and rate the food, dish by dish including service etc. to be filled in. The feedback is anonymous and the chef doesn't see the questionnaires as I am collecting them at the end of the night. The critic can decide him/herself if he/she would like to receive a summary by adding their email address to the sheet. Again, the chef will not see it. 

These evenings have proven very successful and normally book out quickly. This is a fun way of learning about food, discovering new restaurants and meeting like-minded people. 

I am looking forward to meeting new critics - so keep spreading the word.

A Hidden Gem of Cork

Dining Room Pembroke

I am getting asked quite often where I recommend to eat in Cork - a very personal question really but I will give my opinion of course. But for some reasons, I never think of restaurants in hotels in Cork - a big oversight on my part as we have wonderful hotels with great restaurants. Regular readers of this blog know that I am already impressed by the team in River Lee Hotel but now I like to add the Pembroke Restaurant at the Imperial Hotel to that list of great restaurants in Cork.

Mr T and myself spent a midweek break in Imperial and booked dinner at the Pembroke. I have to admit, my expectations were low but to my big surprise, I feel in love with the hotel, the staff and yes, the food. Prembroke has in Craig Mills a chef who has a wonderfully light hand in preparing fish and he proved it in my dish of Tian of Crab and the pan-fried Hake with Lemon-Saffron Sauce. Both dishes were executed perfectly - for me a talent quite rare these days. Mr T tucked into a goats cheese tart for starter and a Trio of Pork Plate for main - and that was a plate of meat, you will have to have a great appetite to be able to finish this dish. It included Jack McCarthy Black Pudding, Pork Belly & Cutlet. Side dishes included potatoes that were roasted with caraway seeds which gave them a new dimension. Mixed vegetables completed the sides. We took our time enjoying the main course and I was able to savour every flavour. The fish is supplied by Jim Good of the Good Fish Company and the meat is sourced in Ireland - another point I am very happy about.

The dessert list was short but catered for all sweet tooth fairies and included chocolate, panna cotta, cheesecake and ice cream - we opted for strawberry cheese cake and hazelnut panna cotta. All desserts are made in-house (for me a big plus) and the hazelnut panna cotta had a wonderful subtle hint of hazelnut and the right amount of 'wobble' (yes, I wobbled). All in all, a wonderful meal, perfectly cooked and Mr T and I left with big smiles on our faces. The in-house bar 'Souths' is the perfect spot for an after-dinner tipple and it rounded our evening up just nicely.

Tian of Crabmeat

The staff is overall excellent. In the restaurant they are extremely attentive without being intrusive. Our waitress was a girl called Karen and she was personal but not too much, she had a nice sense of humour and I wish her all the best for her studies and research - we couldn't have asked for a better waitress. It is always a good sign when employees are smiling - and we saw quite a few walking up and down, simply smiling. A great place to eat and apparently to work as well. 

I have been to the cafe, Lafayette a few times and love the atmosphere of bygone times with their attractive tiling on the walls and the large windows looking onto South Mall but I might be changing the view in future to Pembroke Street instead.

So, from now on, Pembroke will be on my list of places to go if someone is asking for a dinner recommendation again.

By the way, the Imperial has a great Easter Offer on:

The 4-star, Imperial Hotel, located in the heart of Cork city has a fantastic three night Easter offer available over Easter weekend. You can enjoy three night’s bed and full Irish breakfast from just €155 per person sharing. This cracking Easter deal also includes a sweet treat from the Easter Bunny on Easter Sunday. An egg hunt will take place for children at 2.00pm and non-residents who are in for Easter Lunch will also be welcome to partake in the fun! Easter Lunch costs €25 per adult (3 courses) and €13 per child.

Goats Cheese Parcel with Beetroot Chutney

Pan-Fried Hake with Saffron & Lemon Sauce

Trio of Pork

Dessert Menu

Lafayette Tea Rooms

Dining Room

Cheese Cake

Hazelnut Panna Cotta

Food Writer Guild Food Awards - Cork's a winner

Photoshoot before the awards

The Food Writer Guild Ireland was established 30 years ago and is currently headed by Georgina Campbell. Members  include Mrs Myrtle Allen, Darina Allen, Ella McSweeney, Dianne Curtin, Dr Oliver Moore, Joe McNamee to name but a few. Each year, the guild honors the best of food producers and this year was a triumph for Cork Food Producers and I was proud as if I won the awards. 5 out of 6 awards were given to Cork producers which proves again that County Cork is an Artisan Food County. After the ceremony we were treated to an amazing 5 course lunch prepared by Derry Clark and his team using the winning produce. I was in heaven and was indeed very happy to have been given the recipes. The food in L'Ecrivain has always been outstanding and each visit (not as many as I would have liked) was as mesmerizing as the last one. At the Irish Food Writer's Guild Awards, Derry Clark proved again that he is worth a Michelin Star or 2 (surely, the second can't be far off).

Ballyhoura Mountain Mushroom consommé with Coolea cheese tortellini

Cured & smoked Irish mackerel, Irish Heritage potato salad, pickle, beetroot

Dry-aged beef, Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms, Coolea cheese, parsley purée, wild garlic

Irish Atlantic Sea Salt & caramel mousse with Stonewell apple cider sorbet

Choc & Almond Lollipop with mini macaron

Wonderful Display of Mushrooms

Ballyhoura Mushrooms - if you ever have been to Mahon Point Farmer's Market or Midleton Farmer's Market, then you will have come across Lucy and/or Mark who sell their fares each week. They grow the mushrooms as closest to nature's way as possible but also forage quite a large part of their produce. To widen the range, they have added products like cep oil, marinated mushrooms and mushroom ketchup. This award is well deserved and I can't wait to see what Lucy and Mark have up their sleeves with the new season of mushrooms


Stonewell Cider - Daniel and his team should be used to awards by now but the quality of his cider is simply amazing that each new award is well deserved. Last Christmas, Stonewell Cider, introduced a Mulled Cider which went down a treat and I begged him to continue producing this amazing cider and he promised he will (no need to thank me, I did it for the greater good) - Well Done to the whole crew of Stonewell Cider.

Coolea Farmhouse Cheese - he is the gentleman under the cheese makers of Ireland. A quite man with a big cheese. I am delighted that Dick Willems took the Food Writer's Guild Food Award home. His cheese has won several awards already, taking home gold last year at the National Cheese Awards at Bloom Dublin. His son Dicky stepped into his father's footsteps and they have gone from strength to strength. Congratulations to the Willems family.

Irish Atlantic Sea Salt - what a great idea. Using the natural sea salt of Ireland, the O'Neills produce sea salt flakes flavoured with lemon & pepper, garlic and many more flavour combination. Converted fans include Darina Allen and Donal Skehan and Stuart Bowes. The Food Writer's Guild agreed and chose Irish Atlantic Sea Salt as their 2014 winner.

Responsible Irish Fish - let's face it, Ireland took the short straw when the fishing rights were given away but here is a company that wants to make us more aware of what fish we are eating. I had a lovely chat with one of the members (and I am not aware of his name - I must be getting old) about what we can do to increase the knowledge of consumers and chefs. Buy local is the main message but be responsible about it. A company worth watching. The prize was awarded for all the hard work these guys are doing for Irish fish.

Heritage Irish Potato Collection - ince the 1970s, David Langford has been collecting and growing heritage potatoes. In 2006, he teamed up with Dermot Carey, an experienced organic vegetable grower who was then gardener at Lissadell House in Co. Sligo. The horticultural skills, passion and hard work of David and Dermot have resulted in an amazing collection, grown and managed by them on an entirely voluntary basis. The collection has well over two hundred varieties including the Irish Apple (dating from 1768) and the Lumper (forever associated with Irish Potato Famines), as well as more recently developed varieties.It was announced on the night that Richard Corrigan who owns Virginia Park Hotel will house the Irish Heritage Potato Collection for the unforeseeable future. 

Grow your own mushrooms

Myrtle Allen received the Lifetime Achievement Award - on her 90th Birthday. She is a lady I have the highest respect for and who has achieved so much in her lifetime that this award is long overdue.

Congratulations to all winners - and with 5 Cork winners (6 if you count Mrs Allen) I am proud as Oscar. 

Old Post Office - New Gem in Sunday's Well

I am very lucky to meet so many interesting people through my Critic's Nights and one of them told me to head to Vikkis in Sunday's Well - of course, I followed the advise, always on the lookout for a new gem.

Sunday's Well is normally not on my radar although Annie's is located there as well as the City Goal but it doesn't jump to mind if thinking food. That will change now with the arrival of Vikkis - a cafe full of life and laughter, modern with an antique flair, light and warm.

The cafe is located at the Old Post Office in Sunday's Well and Vikki kept most of the original features. The post office was the front of a domestic house and the original fireplace is still in place with couches in front of it. Bright blue tiles behind the counter give the place a light lift and bring sun and summer to mind although it is raining outside. Stairs lead up to a back garden with lovely tables and chairs and on a sunny day will transport you to a Mediterranean island.

Going with the current trend, tea & coffee is served in vintage china - I love it - and my tea came in a silver antique teapot, I was in heaven. The food is based on simple but delicious local food and is made to order. Arbutus bread ensures that the sandwiches are delicious and several options make the choice difficult. On the Pig's back Terrines, O'Flynn Sausages, Blue Haven products and many more Irish products are on display and it becomes clear that Vikki is all about quality.

While Christine and I were enjoying a long overdue chat, a steady stream of people came through the cafe and it became clear that locals have taken to the cafe like fish to water. I might have to reserve the sofa for future visits as it is just too cosy and one doesn't want to leave.

Thank you for a wonderful afternoon :-)

Opening times:

Tue - Fri: 10:00 - 19:00

Sat: 10:00 - 18:00

 

Contact: (021) 439 6575

Autumn/Winter Menu in Bodega Cork

When I think of Bodega Cork, I think of heritage pub, MiDaza craft beer, cocktails and a wonderful decadent interior - but I wouldn't think Good Food.... now that has been changed last night when I attended the launch of the Autumn/Winter menu - thanks to Nicola for inviting me along.

Several stalls have been set up with tastings of the new menu - and let me tell you that it looked delicious.

Not only is the focus on local producers (always a winner with me) but the chef has also been extremely creative in designing a menu that includes vegan, raw and gluten-free dishes - and for once, I didn't pull involuntarily a face (I have to admit I don't care much for vegan food) - it was simply delicious. A courgette lasagne looked as it if came out from a Michelin starred restaurant, the smoothie included spinach, apple, orange, cinnamon and more but the balance was so perfect - it felt good to eat/drink healthy.

But fear not..... I discovered the dessert table quite quickly...... and ohhhhhh it felt soooo good to eat unhealthy....it was wicked.....

I didn't make it to the main table as it was under siege... trust me it was and I take that as a good sign. Seafood Chowder, chicken & vegetable spring roll, chicken wings with homemade BBQ sauce, Irish cheese board and more..... it can make one drooling.......

I met the chef behind the food at the launch and - due to my advanced age (don't you dare agree) - forgot his name. But we chatted quickly about the menu and his pride came across nicely when I congratulated him to the smoothie. I like it when a chef cares as it shows in the food.

For more information, simply go to Bodegacork.ie or call 021 427 3756

 Bodega Cork is definitely on my food radar now and I will have to all in again for a proper dinner.

Bodega Cork is part of the Heritage Pub Group and owner Benny McCabe is working hard on opening a craft brewery opposite - so keep your eyes peeled on this blog.....

The Critics are heading to Greenes

Greenes' new headchef, Bryan McCarthy, is looking forward to welcoming the critics and treat them to a wonderful menu that will show of his skills and love for food. Bryan is a highly respected chef and well known and appreciated amongst other high ranking chefs and I am delighted that he is up for the challenge to meet the critics.

Places are limited and booking is essential - a 6 course tasting menu and a cocktail, especially created for the critics is €36. Booking as always via biasasta@hotmail.com

Killarney for Foodies

I have been to Killarney a few times but for some reason have never actually used it as a destination for good food - a mistake I rectified last week. A wonderful friend, Eithne O'Connor, invited me down to go to her favourite restaurant and I am not one to say no to find new restaurants... so I made my way to Killarney on a Thursday morning.

Having heard so much of Miss Courtney's Tearooms, I had to pay them a visit. Located int he town centre, the tearooms are easy to find and with their lovely front invite you come in. Miss Courtney is in fact Sandra Dunlea and she had the right idea in my eyes. I love tearooms - but they have to be old-fashioned. I love old china, tablecloths and loose tea.... all that is Miss Courtney's. Ok, let me gt the negative point out first: the staff is letting this lovely gem down. When I entered I was greeted by a sign, please wait to be seated. In a room full of empty tables still a bit of a no no for me. But I am obliging and waited. One waitress was right in front of me serving a table. The very young girl looked at me but no smile, no 'I'll be with you in a moment' and even when the guest at the table couldn't decide what to order, the girl ignored me. So, adventures as I am, I took matters into my own hands and walked right into the tearoom and chose a lovely spot in the rear at the window. And I was in heaven...... I sank into an old armchair that reminded me of my nan - fond memories I can ensure you. The menu is short and the pages of tea outweigh the  lunch menu. Each tea is explained with country of origin and what was special about them. No Barry's teabag in sight. Since I had a dinner coming up that night, I didn't want to eat too much so opted for the waffles - oh my god, they were enormous - the biggest waffles I have seen in ages. They came served with cream and maple syrup. The tea, I opted for Earl Grey, came in a silver pot, the milk in a china pourer and the sugar candy was picked up with an antic sugar lifter. Closing my eyes, I was set back to good old times - even the music was matching the atmosphere. Pure bliss. The walls are a light pink (no worries guys, it is just a hint), tablecloths on the tables, old black & white photographs and mirrors in lovely frames make this tearoom a place to relax and enjoy a 'proper' cup of tea. The array of cakes seems to be endless and the slices served are as big as your eyes will be when you have to make a choice. Only suggestion I would have, give the staff a nice uniform (I personally don't like to see sleeveless shirts in the food business) that mirrors the period of the tearooms and a bit of training will go a long way.

So, now to dinner....... Eithne told me a bit about Trevaud's before but for some reason, I didn't do any research on them. A big mistake. The restaurant is located in High Street and its yellow front just invites you in. I arrived at 8pm and the restaurant was buzzing - on a Thursday night a good sign for things to come. The menu is not over complicated and they name the food as it is - no dictionary needed. The service was personal and I had the feeling that I came to visit friends instead of a business. Eithne and I started chatting - the glass of Cava helped a lot - and we weren't pushed to order. The very attentive staff kept an eye on us and when we looked up to order, someone was there to take it.

The restaurant is run by brothers Paul & Mark Trevaud and the emphasis is on great food and great service - sounds simple but as other restaurants have proved, hard to achieve. Paul as front of house makes it look effortless while Mark in the kitchen puts his stamp on wonderful ingredients. The menu was so interesting that it was hard to choose.... Eithne opted for the slowcooked pork belly as a starter - a dish with moist pork, beautifully presented while I couldn't say no to the rustic tomato soup which came drizzled with pesto and scattered cheese over it. Rustic meant chunky and for once, I loved a soup that had bits in it. My mum would have said, it taste like a tomato should taste. For mains, we were in trouble - so many good sounding dishes... although the menu is not overcrowded, the choice is hard. Finally, Eithne went for the bakes hake that came with a curried beurre blanc - a nice hint of curry, hardly there went so well with the hake that you could believe they were married. I was not able to choose between the pumpkin lasagne and the forrest mushroom risotto.... so I was offered a combo.... I was in heaven. The pasta for the lasagne, I learned was made by the chef..... he could be Italian for all I know rather than being a hardcore Kerry Man. The lasagne was cooked perfectly, the sweetness of the pumpkin went so well with the tomato based sauce mingled with cream and mild cheese.... I was in heaven.... but hey, we still have the risotto...... these days, loads of people say they are using wild mushrooms and you wonder where the taste of mushrooms went on vacation - not here, the risotto was perfectly cooked, not too hard, not too soft and the mushrooms gave the rich, dark earthy flavour they are suppose to have.

Paul recommended a lovely bottle of white Rioja - a perfect suggestion as it was light enough not to interfere with the fish but strong enough to handle the mushrooms.

Desserts???? I don't know as we were both happily full and skipped the dessert in favour of a drink afterwards in the pub opposite to the restaurant. But here is the funny part - Paul Trevaud is a YouTube star with his own cooking channel - he even appeared on the Saturday Show once to talk about his 'hobby' to cook at the most crazy locations, may it be on top of a tree cooking a quail, or top of a snow-covered mountain in his t-shirt. I will definitely be back soon - this restaurant makes Killarney a destination for foodies - I am sure there are more but I think Trevaud's is unique.

I was in so deep conversation that I even forgot to buy Paul's book that was available in the restaurant. I was just wonderful to chat to Mark after the service about his love for good Irish produce and how he takes care of the ingredients to give his diners the best flavour of each. I think we bored the rest of the people still in the restaurant but if you get me started on Irish food and its producers, there is no stopping me. Thank you to Eithne for introducing me to this wonderful restaurant and to Paul & Mark for an amazing dinner experience.