Changing the Menu - or not

Changing a menu of an existing restaurant can be a difficult task. The chef who has developed the menu, the manager and the customers - all have a stand and all are used to the existing one and might be uncomfortable with any changes. So, why would I suggest to change a menu then?

It all depends on how long the menu is in place, how it has evolved (or not) over time and if it still has a fresh feel to it. Restaurants are not only defined by the food served, decor or furniture. It is also defined by the customers & diners. If you are starting a new restaurant, you have free reign but if the restaurant has already a faithful followership, you need to be careful not to alienate these diners.

I am like most people - a creature of habit (in some restaurants I always order the same dishes) and I don't like drastic changes to my favourite restaurants. The old familiar is comfortable and soothing but can tend to be boring. Will it entice new diners to return, does it make diners to talk about the food in the restaurant to their friends and families? Will customers go out of their way to visit the restaurant?? I doubt it. It might be alright when I am passing to pop in for a quick bite to eat but would I consider a visit when I am planning a night out with friends and we are discussing where to go for a nice meal?

So, how does one go about it to introduce changes? Small steps, small changes at a time. I am working with a client at the moment and we were discussing changes in his restaurant and he was quite open when it came to implementing processes & guidelines to guarantee standards and consistency but we had a bit of a dead pass when it came to the menu. Dishes are rotated on a regular basis over several weeks that is should create the feel of a regular changing menu. This can work for quite some time but it can also prevent a menu to evolve with time & trends.

Working with the chef is key here. Bringing ideas to the table and getting input from the kitchen team is necessary to introduce small changes. My ideas might be great and innovative but do I really know the existing diners? My job is to suggest, plan and implement with the help of the entire team. I know food, trends and the general diner - the team knows the regular customers. Bringing both expertise together should result in a synergy that will bare fruit to amazing ideas. I am looking forward to seeing these changes happening and being part of it.

Looking in from the outside

You might not know but I am consulting on a few local restaurant and food businesses and it is great fun, meeting all these amazing people who are dedicated and hard working and have a passion for what they do.

I am currently working with a local business that is kind of an institution - I am going here for years and love the laid back atmosphere, the feel that time just stops here and that I am not hurried out to make space for the next guest. The menu rotates regularly with favorites being always on the menu. So if you came regularly, you would know the menu and when what special would be on. Nothing wrong with that but the time has come to adapt to the changing dining market.

Teamwork is essential for success

And this is where the challenge for me and the team lays. You still want the feel of the place to stay the same, want to keep existing diners but need to attract new ones. Food trends need to be considered and of course special dietary requirements need to be transformed into tasty dishes. And all that while a hard working team is unsure if they will like the changes and how guests will react.

What I have to keep in mind is that everyone has a comfort zone and it is not easy to penetrate this zone (I know just too well as I have my own comfort zone and protect it when endangered). Tact and diplomacy is the key here. Trying to convert skeptics into believers - the chef who has worked hard on the menu, the restaurant manager who is worried on being left out and the staff who work hard behind the scenes - is the key to create a team that works towards a common goal.

I am the person who is coming in from the outside looking in - I have a clear view as I am not manipulated by processes, history or worries - but do I know the place? No - not as well as the staff who work here for years, who have seen transformations before, who have built up relationships with diners and who have given their time and expertise. So do they need me?? Yes, they do - to show them different ways to achieve the common goal, to bring expertise that is not bound on processes, history and worries. But I need to keep in mind that I can't do it alone. I need this team behind me to achieve with them the changes needed to bring this amazing place into new territory.

So my job starts with listening - to their processes, history and worries and learning from their experience. This is what I am doing at the moment while doing research into food trends and customer profiling.

I really love this job - watch this space for updates in the coming weeks on how we implementing changes.

Delicous Food in Maryborough - Believe me

It is not very often that I am writing a restaurant review and even less often that I am reviewing a hotel restaurant. But I came across this amazing gem when I was invited to a 'foodie' evening in the Maryborough Hotel organised by AA.

I have to admit, I didn't expect much but since Avril Allshire Howe of Rosscarbery came as well, I thought it was a great way of catching up with this amazing food producer (and boy, did we catch up, talking til way after midnight).

But let's talk about the food - as I mentioned, my expectations weren't very high but I was extremely surprised. The photos don't do the food justice (plates were black and it was dark) - so you will have to trust my words. I missed the first course as traffic was terrible but it was Pan Fried Scallop, Cumin Roasted Pork Belly with Cauliflower Puree (feedback from others was fantastic). Then came:

Seared Pigeon, Golden Beetroot, Orange Veloute - gamey, fresh, perfect autumn/winter dish

Didn't take photo (was just arriving)

 

Salmon Mi Cuit, Whiskey & Soya Lacquer, Herb Créme Fraiche - the best salmon I have eaten EVER

Potato Espuma, Crispy Potato Skins & House Pancetta - Rich, warming, creative, simply wonderful

Forgot to take a photo (ups)

Seared Venison Loin, Braised Haunch, Swede Puree, Cassis Jus - PERFECTION

Pork Fillet, Apricot & chestnut stuffing, Butternut Squash, Sage Crisp - Beautiful cooking, perfect balance of flavours, 

Roasted Monkfish, Parma Ham, Mussel Infusion - a simple description of a beautiful dish - a taste of the sea with a bit of earthiness 

Chargrilled Vegetables, Cumin Yoghurt, Halloumi - a different take on Halloumi

Earl Grey Tea Créme Brulee, Cinnamon Crips & Flora Tea - Subtle flavours, excellent execution, beautiful tea

Mulled Wine & Pear Trifle - AMAZING

Gingerbread & Lemon Curd Cup with Hazelnut Meringue Cap - curd was too sweet for me but perfect for a sweet tooth

Chocolate Taster Plate - Dark Chocolate Mousse in a chocolate case, white chocolate & Whiskey parfait (next to the trifle my favourite dessert)

Just writing the dishes down, makes me want more. It was a balanced menu, created by chefs who care. Perfect execution and presentation (apart from the black plates) - I will be back for more.

Service was exceptional - waiters/waitresses are well trained and attentive without invading your space. Head Chef Brendan Brosnan and General Manager Justin McCarthy have a winning formula and I am looking forward to many visits in the future.

Heather's at the Gap of Dunloe

Whenever I hear of restaurant openings, my ears are set to high alert and I get excited - the prospect of good food does that to me.

One of these openings was Heather at Moriarty's in Gap of Dunloe. I have to admit, I don't venture out much into Kerry (a big mistake, I know) so I was intrigued to see what Heather is all about and thanks to their PR company, Fuzion, I received an invite to the opening (big thank you for that).

Denis Moriarty welcoming Rachel Allen

Heather is located on the road that leads to the Gap and with a great advantage, it is one of the first premises you will see when you drive up the road. The building itself smooths in nicely with the rugged surrounds of the Kerry countryside. Tim Austen of RTE's Super Garden (previous) has designed the gardens and considering that it has only been finished recently, you can already see how he took the local flora and incorporated it to create an interactive gardens that will invite bees, butterflies and other wildlife to the area.

Staying with growing, 2 large poly tunnels provide a wide array of salads, herbs and vegetables. Across the grounds 130 fruit bushes have been planted - it doesn't get fresher than that.

Rachel Allen opening Heather

Michael & Margaret Moriarty established the souvenir shop in 1964 and have quickly gained a reputation for high quality. Son Denis and his wife Ailish are running the business now and Denis told us in his opening speech how his father used to collect local heather, bound it into nice bunches and sold it to passing tourists. An entrepreneur after my liking - so the name of the restaurant is in honour of Michael who passed away. Mother Margaret is still involved in the business and you could see how proud she was of Denis who has visions for the future.

Restaurant manager Jennifer Dowling is working hard to transform this vision into reality and is very open when asked about ethos of the restaurant etc. The food is sourced within a 25km area if not grown on the premises. The Moriarties are working closely with local producers who were invited to meet future customers and talk about their products and I had the great pleasure of meeting the amazing Peter Ireson of Knocknatee Cheese. His cheddar and blue cheese were simply outstanding - high quality cheese that will be in my top 10 cheese list. Peter himself is a character who you simply have to like.

The restaurant will be open 7 days a week until 7pm but private parties can be booked. The menu highlights local produce and the ethos is, let the food and its quality speak for itself. Mains include Ring of Kerry Lamb Chops with Braised Lentils, Buttered Bay Carrots and Sage Jus, Glenbeigh Cockles and Mussels cooked in White Wine, Garlic and Chill. Brunch is served Saturday and Sundays from 11am. 

So make sure to stop at Heather's when you are in the area...... the Gap of Dunloe is always worth a visit, now there is an added bonus

Can a menu be creative??

Handwritten Menu 1905

My grandmother used to collect unusual menus from restaurants - she was extremely charming and people couldn't say no when she asked to take one home. She had a small collection as menus are not really that unusual most of the time. I laughed the first time she came home with one - she was so proud that she was able to persuade the waiter to give her the menu. We sat over it and discussed all the items on it, some were in French so we tried to figure out what they were and we even tried to re-cook some of the dishes at home.

Her collection was small because restaurants have normally just simple menus, especially if they change the items on the list. I have recently an article about the science behind written menus and it states that menus should be only one page long, prices only be displayed without the currency sign (kinda agree) and that it should be not be sorted by price but after a chart that has been developed according to how we screen a menu when reading.

Creative modern menu

I always say to chefs, keep the menu simple - the items at least. But what about the design of a menu? Are we really happy with just a page, printed and maybe a little picture on it? Or would we prefer a creative design?? I for example hate laminated menus - it looks cheap and most of the times it is sticky and dirty (funny as it was laminated to keep the paper beneath clean). Don't get me wrong, I am talking about the design not the food.

Printed Menu

So what should be on a menu? Of course, the food, the prices, now also allergies like nuts etc. (a complete list can be found here) and some are now displaying calories (which I don't agree with at all to be honest). These are the fundamental items that need to be on the menu (doesn't make much sense having a menu otherwise now, does it) but the second one is the design of the menu itself. Font, size, colour etc are decisions that most people don't pay much attention to - unfortunately if you ask me.

By researching vintage style menus I came across some beautiful samples - some handwritten ones, some painted and some even so simple, still gorgeous. The Workshop Tea Room in Ballygarvan had a wonderful example from the Cork Airport Restaurant about 50 years old and it looked simply stunning.

So, back to the question, why are modern menus so boring?? Obvious, it can be expensive if you are changing your menu regularly (let's face it, menus should be changed any now and then) and having to reprint it but there are many ideas on how to create a beautiful one. Craft shops are a great place for inspiration, look at vintage samples or simply leave your imagination run wild. Hey, there could be even a new business in for the right person - designing beautiful menus.

Staff is the biggest Asset in Restaurants

Have you ever been to a restaurant where the food was amazing but the service was awful? Only a few restaurant owners and chefs actually know what goes on in front of house (same as front of house mostly is not aware of what the kitchen is doing).

I have been recently to several restaurants and it became very obvious that communication between front of house and kitchen was not practised and in the second, staff wasn't able to explain a specific dish to asking guests.

Train your staff !!! It is so vital for any business but especially for restaurants. Front of house needs to communicate with the kitchen. For example, I ordered a starter of bread & dips. It was a huge portion (should have been sold as a sharing platter really) and fish as a main course. I visited the restaurant with a girl and when 2 girls are having lunch together they talk and talk and talk. The front of house did not communicate to the kitchen that we were talkative and slow eaters. The result was that the fish was prepared too early and had to sit under a hot lamp until ready to be served - the fish ended up with a hard skin on top and being overcooked. A quick talk to the chef would have had a different result in waiting to start cooking the fish and the lunch would have been an excellent experience.

In France & Germany, waiting in a restaurant is a trade. You will go through an apprenticeship and takes 2-3 years. The difference is noticeable (although French waiter have the reputation of being arrogant - the service is still outstanding). 

So what does staff need to know and what talents should you be looking for in a recruit?

Logic - Common Sense
It seems so obvious but trust me it is not a given. For example, again I was meeting with a friend and we had a bottle of wine and started to get the munchies. We didn't want a full meal so ordered a cheese plate. The waiter saw that we were two people but didn't think to ask if we wanted to order for 2 or just the single portion. When I asked for more cheese, I got the answer 'That's the way we serve it' - but we got the cheese. The reaction of the waiter put a small damper on the evening but the cheese was delicious. Common sense and logic should have assessed the situation and acted accordingly.

Speech
Obviously, everyone can talk but it is the way of talking that counts here. Speech and talk needs to be adjusted according to who the guest is. A young couple can be addressed with 'hi guys' while an elderly couple should not have to hear 'hi' at all. If you know you have a harsh voice, speak more quietly to balance it out. Local accents can be charming but if they are not, try to keep them to a minimum.

Conversation
Some diners like to get into a conversation with the waiter but make sure that the guests are comfortable with it. Don't push a conversation onto guests. When talking about the food, make sure staff is very well informed. A shoulder shrug is the last thing a guest wants to see.
'Chats' with colleagues should happen behind the scenes. I don't want to hear about your latest adventure (unless I am asking) - so try to have chats with colleagues away from the dining room.

Serving - Waiting Tables
Serving entails so much more than just bringing the plate to the table - when handing out the menus, try to have eye contact with guests. Know the menu so that any questions can be answered, especially when it comes to special dietary requirements. How you serve the food depends on the type of restaurant (silver service is more demanding) but make sure that the plate isn't 'dumped' on the table. Wait until everyone is finished at the table (normally fork and knife are place next to each other across the plate) before clearing the plates. Here it happens very often that cutlery is taken away with the starter plates but not replaced, resulting in the guest having to ask. Same for napkins. If you replace cutlery, add a napkin.

Don't 'stalk' diners with wanting to clear up. I was having an early dinner one day (with very good food and service) but I watched a couple having what seemed to be a romantic evening and staff came over several time asking if they are finished. After the third time, the woman gave up and looked quite annoyed. The couple asked for the bill. If staff would have made them more comfortable by leaving them alone for a bit, they might have ordered another glass of wine and therefore added revenue.

Please train your staff - if you don't know how, give me a call.