Heather's at the Gap of Dunloe

Whenever I hear of restaurant openings, my ears are set to high alert and I get excited - the prospect of good food does that to me.

One of these openings was Heather at Moriarty's in Gap of Dunloe. I have to admit, I don't venture out much into Kerry (a big mistake, I know) so I was intrigued to see what Heather is all about and thanks to their PR company, Fuzion, I received an invite to the opening (big thank you for that).

Denis Moriarty welcoming Rachel Allen

Heather is located on the road that leads to the Gap and with a great advantage, it is one of the first premises you will see when you drive up the road. The building itself smooths in nicely with the rugged surrounds of the Kerry countryside. Tim Austen of RTE's Super Garden (previous) has designed the gardens and considering that it has only been finished recently, you can already see how he took the local flora and incorporated it to create an interactive gardens that will invite bees, butterflies and other wildlife to the area.

Staying with growing, 2 large poly tunnels provide a wide array of salads, herbs and vegetables. Across the grounds 130 fruit bushes have been planted - it doesn't get fresher than that.

Rachel Allen opening Heather

Michael & Margaret Moriarty established the souvenir shop in 1964 and have quickly gained a reputation for high quality. Son Denis and his wife Ailish are running the business now and Denis told us in his opening speech how his father used to collect local heather, bound it into nice bunches and sold it to passing tourists. An entrepreneur after my liking - so the name of the restaurant is in honour of Michael who passed away. Mother Margaret is still involved in the business and you could see how proud she was of Denis who has visions for the future.

Restaurant manager Jennifer Dowling is working hard to transform this vision into reality and is very open when asked about ethos of the restaurant etc. The food is sourced within a 25km area if not grown on the premises. The Moriarties are working closely with local producers who were invited to meet future customers and talk about their products and I had the great pleasure of meeting the amazing Peter Ireson of Knocknatee Cheese. His cheddar and blue cheese were simply outstanding - high quality cheese that will be in my top 10 cheese list. Peter himself is a character who you simply have to like.

The restaurant will be open 7 days a week until 7pm but private parties can be booked. The menu highlights local produce and the ethos is, let the food and its quality speak for itself. Mains include Ring of Kerry Lamb Chops with Braised Lentils, Buttered Bay Carrots and Sage Jus, Glenbeigh Cockles and Mussels cooked in White Wine, Garlic and Chill. Brunch is served Saturday and Sundays from 11am. 

So make sure to stop at Heather's when you are in the area...... the Gap of Dunloe is always worth a visit, now there is an added bonus

Knockdrinna Cheese - A Day Out

Helen Finnegan

Everyone who knows me more than 5 minutes will know that I love cheese - no, that I am mad about cheese. So much so that I started to make cheese myself at home. I started with Labneh (Lebanese cheese made from yoghurt) and lately with the help of my wonderful farming neighbour, I started to make 'proper' cheese. Cheesemaking is easier than most people think but harder than most people hope. It is chemistry after all.

I was looking for courses on cheesemaking - Teagasc is offering Farmhouse Cheesemaking courses with a certificate at the end (did it 2 years ago and it was great) - but I wanted a more hands-on approach. Luckily I came across Knockdrinna Cheesemakers who have monthly cheesemaking courses at their premises (great opportunity to 'spy' a bit as well in case we are going into production ourselves). Located in Stoneyfort in Kilkenny, Helen Finnegan has come a long way since she started 2004 in her kitchen. She was very lucky as she had great support from the local authority who approved her kitchen for food production and after that, there was no stopping her.

Helen is a great demonstrator and very generous with advice, ideas and tips. We met all in the demonstration room where we introduced ourselves and Helen told us her background and the beginnings of Knockdrinna Cheese. She then went on to heat milk while explaining the use of starter culture and rennet. We saw the milk turning into cheese before our eyes and Helen shared with us the different uses of the curd (making cream cheese from the same batch as the hard cheese) and showed us how easy it is to make butter.

Knockdrinna Cheeses

Lunch was a relaxed affair with tasters of all Knockdrinna Cheeses - most which won awards here and abroad - and homemade brown bread. We all sat around the table as if we known each other for years. It proves again that a good meal makes people simply happy.

After lunch we pressed the curds and checked on 'our' cream cheese which turned out nicely. We then went into the cheese room and we saw the heart of the operation. It is a medium sized business that concentrates more on quality than quantity. Cheese are turned and washed by hand (a new addition of cheese is washed with craft beer) - something that is becoming quite rare with cheesemakers.

We all went home with a bit of cheese, cream cheese and butter and Mr T and I talked all cheese on the way home.

Knockdrinna has an online store but in case you are in Stoneyfort, make sure to pop into their artisan farm shop where you can buy not only Knockdrinna products but also local artisan produce. A great gift idea (apart from the course) are the hampers that have been lovingly assembled with cheese, chutney and crackers.

The cheese course is €80 all included and takes place on a monthly basis. Check out their website for updates.

There is a story to these pink pasta strainers

Killarney for Foodies

I have been to Killarney a few times but for some reason have never actually used it as a destination for good food - a mistake I rectified last week. A wonderful friend, Eithne O'Connor, invited me down to go to her favourite restaurant and I am not one to say no to find new restaurants... so I made my way to Killarney on a Thursday morning.

Having heard so much of Miss Courtney's Tearooms, I had to pay them a visit. Located int he town centre, the tearooms are easy to find and with their lovely front invite you come in. Miss Courtney is in fact Sandra Dunlea and she had the right idea in my eyes. I love tearooms - but they have to be old-fashioned. I love old china, tablecloths and loose tea.... all that is Miss Courtney's. Ok, let me gt the negative point out first: the staff is letting this lovely gem down. When I entered I was greeted by a sign, please wait to be seated. In a room full of empty tables still a bit of a no no for me. But I am obliging and waited. One waitress was right in front of me serving a table. The very young girl looked at me but no smile, no 'I'll be with you in a moment' and even when the guest at the table couldn't decide what to order, the girl ignored me. So, adventures as I am, I took matters into my own hands and walked right into the tearoom and chose a lovely spot in the rear at the window. And I was in heaven...... I sank into an old armchair that reminded me of my nan - fond memories I can ensure you. The menu is short and the pages of tea outweigh the  lunch menu. Each tea is explained with country of origin and what was special about them. No Barry's teabag in sight. Since I had a dinner coming up that night, I didn't want to eat too much so opted for the waffles - oh my god, they were enormous - the biggest waffles I have seen in ages. They came served with cream and maple syrup. The tea, I opted for Earl Grey, came in a silver pot, the milk in a china pourer and the sugar candy was picked up with an antic sugar lifter. Closing my eyes, I was set back to good old times - even the music was matching the atmosphere. Pure bliss. The walls are a light pink (no worries guys, it is just a hint), tablecloths on the tables, old black & white photographs and mirrors in lovely frames make this tearoom a place to relax and enjoy a 'proper' cup of tea. The array of cakes seems to be endless and the slices served are as big as your eyes will be when you have to make a choice. Only suggestion I would have, give the staff a nice uniform (I personally don't like to see sleeveless shirts in the food business) that mirrors the period of the tearooms and a bit of training will go a long way.

So, now to dinner....... Eithne told me a bit about Trevaud's before but for some reason, I didn't do any research on them. A big mistake. The restaurant is located in High Street and its yellow front just invites you in. I arrived at 8pm and the restaurant was buzzing - on a Thursday night a good sign for things to come. The menu is not over complicated and they name the food as it is - no dictionary needed. The service was personal and I had the feeling that I came to visit friends instead of a business. Eithne and I started chatting - the glass of Cava helped a lot - and we weren't pushed to order. The very attentive staff kept an eye on us and when we looked up to order, someone was there to take it.

The restaurant is run by brothers Paul & Mark Trevaud and the emphasis is on great food and great service - sounds simple but as other restaurants have proved, hard to achieve. Paul as front of house makes it look effortless while Mark in the kitchen puts his stamp on wonderful ingredients. The menu was so interesting that it was hard to choose.... Eithne opted for the slowcooked pork belly as a starter - a dish with moist pork, beautifully presented while I couldn't say no to the rustic tomato soup which came drizzled with pesto and scattered cheese over it. Rustic meant chunky and for once, I loved a soup that had bits in it. My mum would have said, it taste like a tomato should taste. For mains, we were in trouble - so many good sounding dishes... although the menu is not overcrowded, the choice is hard. Finally, Eithne went for the bakes hake that came with a curried beurre blanc - a nice hint of curry, hardly there went so well with the hake that you could believe they were married. I was not able to choose between the pumpkin lasagne and the forrest mushroom risotto.... so I was offered a combo.... I was in heaven. The pasta for the lasagne, I learned was made by the chef..... he could be Italian for all I know rather than being a hardcore Kerry Man. The lasagne was cooked perfectly, the sweetness of the pumpkin went so well with the tomato based sauce mingled with cream and mild cheese.... I was in heaven.... but hey, we still have the risotto...... these days, loads of people say they are using wild mushrooms and you wonder where the taste of mushrooms went on vacation - not here, the risotto was perfectly cooked, not too hard, not too soft and the mushrooms gave the rich, dark earthy flavour they are suppose to have.

Paul recommended a lovely bottle of white Rioja - a perfect suggestion as it was light enough not to interfere with the fish but strong enough to handle the mushrooms.

Desserts???? I don't know as we were both happily full and skipped the dessert in favour of a drink afterwards in the pub opposite to the restaurant. But here is the funny part - Paul Trevaud is a YouTube star with his own cooking channel - he even appeared on the Saturday Show once to talk about his 'hobby' to cook at the most crazy locations, may it be on top of a tree cooking a quail, or top of a snow-covered mountain in his t-shirt. I will definitely be back soon - this restaurant makes Killarney a destination for foodies - I am sure there are more but I think Trevaud's is unique.

I was in so deep conversation that I even forgot to buy Paul's book that was available in the restaurant. I was just wonderful to chat to Mark after the service about his love for good Irish produce and how he takes care of the ingredients to give his diners the best flavour of each. I think we bored the rest of the people still in the restaurant but if you get me started on Irish food and its producers, there is no stopping me. Thank you to Eithne for introducing me to this wonderful restaurant and to Paul & Mark for an amazing dinner experience.

A little bit of Paradise in Oysterhaven - Walton Court

Janis & Christine welcoming with a big smile

Yesterday, Sunday, was a dreadful day. Rainy, cloudy and cold so I was not eager to get out but was considering staying in front of the fire instead with a stack of homemade biscuits. But instead, I remembered that Christine Girault took over a cafe in Oysterhaven. So, I faced the elements and made my way down there - driving through a traffic jam at Sarsfield Roundabout (they are building a new flyover.....) took ages to get through and I was already talking to myself that it was a bad idea to leave the warm house.

Beautiful display of cakes

When I came to Oysterhaven, I noticed that Christine never mentioned the name of the cafe so considering that Oysterhaven ain't that big, I turned into Walton Court hoping that I had the right one - and yeap, Christine was smiling from ear to ear.

The fire was roaring, the atmosphere of the cafe was homely, welcoming and warm. Delicious cakes were waiting for hungry tummies and I had the feeling of having returned home rather than entering a business. Christine introduced me to Janis Rafferty - one part of the power duo that runs Walton Court and I learned so much about Walton Court.

My lunch platter - delicious, fresh and wholesome

Janis and her lovely husband Paul have bought Walton court in 1996 - a total derelict building and made it to a bit of paradise in Oysterhaven (they even have people from Belgooley spending their summer holiday there). It took 5 years to restore the house to its former glory and to add the modern comfort without compromising the historic meaning of the building. Several self contained cottages are spread around the estate and bookings are already coming in for 2014. A small swimming pool in the courtyard just looks as it is has been there from the beginning and doesn't seem to be out of place. You can feel the love that Janis and Paul put into the estate and you can imagine yourself spending many happy hours there.

I planned to stay for a cup of tea and chat to Christine for a bit before heading back. I stayed for hours - that is the type of place where time seems to stand still and when you get out you realise you just spent 4 hours in the most relaxed place on earth.

The Courtyard Cafe is currently opened at the weekend from 11am to 5ish (I stayed til 6ish) and offers savoury dishes like hummus with homemade bread, salads, dips, soup of the day and platters. Cakes are displayed beautifully and the service comes with the biggest smile. The cafe will be opened full time at the start of the season - and I will be spending quite some time down there.

But the cafe and cottages are not the only thing that makes Walton Court worth a visit (although it would be) - the Pamper Room, run by Josie,

A roaring fire invites you to stay and relax

Leave reality behind when entering Walton Court

offers massages and beauty treatments and Janis is offering cookery classes as well as tapas nights and much much more.... 

Contact Janis on +353 (0)21 4770878 or email enquiry@waltoncourt.com for rates and more details. This is a place removed from the stress of our daily grinds - you will be transported into a little piece for paradise.

Garden Workshop

The Guinea Pig Club @ The River Lee Hotel

What a beautiful evening - The first outing of the Guinea Pig Club was a wonderful success. Shane O'Sullivan and his team have stepped up to the plate and delivered a wonderful menu with local produce and everything was made in-house - from the pasta to the curing of the duck breast. The restaurant in River Lee Hotel has all the makings of a food destination here in Cork. 

From Castletownbere, Shane O'Sullivan has always felt a connection with food with earliest memories being of mixing the Christmas cake with Gertie, his mother, or picking mussels & periwinkles with his father, John Finbarr. His Parents brought him to Michael Clifford’s (one of the pioneers of modern Irish cuisine) Restaurant, 18 Dyke Parade for his 18 birthdays. Shane still remembers exactly what he had for dinner that night & it lit an ember that would slowly turn in to a blaze later.

His career has led him from the early stages as a cook on a fishing trawler to running & working in kitchens from Greece, America, the UK & Ireland. While studying in CIT, Shane worked with the very talented Michael Fleming of Cork's Flemings where he compiled his foundation. Working in many well known favourites in Cork, as well as his own restaurant in his home town of Castletownbere, Shane then made the move to the River Lee Hotel, first as Sous Chef in 2010 & then taking the helm as Executive Head Chef in 2011.

Shane’s passion for all things local is clearly seen in his menus & since becoming Head Chef, he has built a very solid & driven team around him. Firmly putting The River Lee hotel as a food destination using real local artisan produce. Shane and his crew not only bake their own bread but also make their own pasta – not a task many kitchens make the effort to master.

 

Let me wet your appetite with the menu that was served:

• Sugar Cured Skeaghanore Duck served with baby leaves, pomegranate, blood orange & pistachio puree
• Ardsallagh Goat's Cheese & Beetroot Ravioli served with overnight tomato & basil pesto
• Tempura of Castletownbere monkfish, langoustine, squid, baby carrot, asparagus & pepper, served with sea lettuce miso
• Michael Twomey Irish Angus Beef - Three Way: Beef Wellington with shallot puree, braised cheeks bordelaise, roast marrow with truffle emulsion
• O'Connells Chocolate & extra virgin olive oil mousse, rhubarb tuille & raspberry marshmallow

The perfect partners for the menu were Swallow's Tale Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin from South Africa & Puna Snipe Reserva Merlot-Syrah-Malbec from Chile

It was great to see that the diners took the task of judging the food seriously and the feedback given throughout the night was fair, sound and helpful. People who have never met before were friends at the end of the evening and I can't wait for the next outing of the critics.

I would like to thank the staff of the River Lee Hotel Restaurant for their help on the night - especially the waiting staff Jarek, Martha, Raul, Carlos, Eva & Piers. They served the food with a smile and added to the relaxed atmosphere of the evening. 

The next outing of the Critics will be to L'Atitude on the 28th March where the guests have the double task of judging the wine as well as the food. Please email me on biasasta@hotmail.com to reserve a place or for more details.